Betta Fish Care Guide: Everything You Need to Know

betta fish care
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Last Updated: August 31, 2023 by Flora Gibbins

Did you know that Betta fish, those brilliantly colored and often feisty little creatures, were once used for an ancient form of entertainment? In fact, Betta fish fighting was such a popular pastime in Siam (now Thailand) during the 19th century that people would bet on the outcome, with some even risking their homes on the outcome of a single fight!

Thankfully, times have changed, and we now admire these beautiful fish for their vibrant colors and unique personalities rather than their fighting prowess.

If you’re passionate about Bettas and want to keep them happy and gorgeous, this is the ultimate Betta fish care guide.

We’ll use what we know about the Betta fish’s natural habitat to inform each important aspect of Betta fish care, covering questions such as:

  • Why should Betta fish not live in vases?
  • Should have a heater on your tank?
  • Are tank mates a good idea?
  • How do you keep Betta fish happy and healthy?
  • Plus a whole lot more

It’s great that you are here ready to learn more about Betta care, hope this page helps!

Basic Betta Facts

  • Common names: Siamese fighting fish, Betta fish, Japanese fighting fish
  • Scientific name: Betta splendens
  • Adult size: 2.5-3 inches (6-7.5 cm) long
  • Lifespan: 3-5 years
  • Colors and Variations: Wide range, including red, blue, green, yellow, black, white, and multicolored; various tail shapes like Veiltail, Halfmoon, and Crowntail
  • Origin: Southeast Asia (Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos)

Check out more Betta facts and trivia here.

Betta Fish Care Overview


  • Give your Betta a lot of personal space (“shallow stream” does not mean “can live in a jar”!)
  • A 5-gallon tank is a perfect size for one male Betta (but the bigger the better).
  • Keep your Betta fish’s water in the high 70s degrees F (78° – 80°F).
  • Leave some space at the top of your tank for the fish to come to the surface for air.
  • Use a gentle filter. This will maintain your Betta fish’s water conditions longer and the tank cleaner.
  • Feed your Betta fish with a few Betta-specific pellets per day.
  • Give frozen bloodworms as a treat.
  • Give your Betta plenty of personal space, at least 5 gallons.
  • Have bottom feeders (sucker fish) as tank mates.
  • Give your Betta fish a tank that is planted with shady areas and places to hide.
  • Use drift wood as Betta tank decoration as they can swim and hide under the uneven stumps.
  • Provide a light for your Betta throughout the day and turn it off  at night.
  • Include shaded areas in your tank for your Betta to relax.


  • Don’t keep your Betta fish in a small vase or bowl.
  • Don’t keep your Betta fish in cold water.
  • Don’t put a heater on a tank <1 gallon as heaters on small Betta tanks will heat too quickly.
  • Don’t fill your tank to the top and leave no space. It is very bad for Bettas if they do not use their labyrinth bladder from time to time.
  • Don’t skip lid. Betta fish can be good jumpers!
  • Don’t keep your Betta in a tank without a filter if you are not prepared to do regular and large water changes.
  • Don’t overfeed your Betta. A Betta’s stomach is about the size of its eye.
  • Don’t use generic aquarium flakes. It is best give food specifically created for Betta fish.
  • Don’t keep two male Betta fish together in the same tank.
  • Don’t keep Bettas with other brightly colored fish with flowing fins.
  • Don’t place ornaments that are rough or have sharp edges.
  • Don’t keep the tank bare and boring.
  • Don’t keep a light on all night. This can stress the fish.
  • Don’t put your tank in direct sunlight. This promotes algae growth.

Origin and Distribution

Bettas in the Wild

Betta fish are native to Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand (hence the name Siamese fighting fish), Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos. They inhabit shallow, slow-moving waters like rice paddies, ponds, and marshes, which are often low in oxygen.

In the wild, Betta fish inhabit shallow, slow-moving bodies of water, such as rice paddies, ponds, marshes, and even drainage ditches. These environments are often warm, with temperatures ranging from 75°F to 82°F (24°C to 28°C). The water is typically soft and slightly acidic, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5.

Betta fish’s natural habitats are characterized by dense vegetation, both submerged and floating, which provides them with shelter and hiding spots. The plants also play a role in the Betta’s diet, as they support a diverse range of insects, larvae, and other small organisms that bettas feed on.

The water in Betta fish habitats is often murky and low in oxygen due to the slow water movement and decomposition of organic matter. This is why Bettas have evolved to possess a labyrinth organ, which allows them to breathe atmospheric air from the water’s surface, enabling them to thrive in these difficult environments. This is why Bettas are classified as top-dwelling fish.

Bettas as Aquarium Fish

Bettas were first introduced to the western world in the late 19th century and quickly gained popularity as pets due to their vibrant colors, unique appearance, and hardy nature.

They are now bred worldwide in a variety of colors and fin shapes, resulting in the stunning and diverse bettas we see in aquarium stores today.

Bettas have become a popular choice for both beginner and experienced aquarists, as their care requirements are manageable and their personalities make them engaging and enjoyable pets.

colorful betta fish in aquarium


Betta fish are the aquatic world’s living art, their flowing fins captivating the eyes of all who behold them as they billow and dance with each graceful movement. Many fin shapes and styles exist among the various breeds of Bettas, such as the elegant Veiltail, the dramatic Halfmoon, and the regal Crowntail, each with its own distinct charm.

A kaleidoscope of colors adorns their scaly canvas, ranging from fiery reds to cool blues, from deep purples to iridescent greens, and everything in between. Some Bettas also have unique patterns such as marble, butterfly, and dragon, adding to the diversity of this captivating species. Each individual Betta is truly a unique masterpiece.

The body of a betta fish is elongated and somewhat compressed, with a rounded head and upturned mouth, specially adapted for feeding at the water’s surface. Male bettas are generally more vibrant and have longer fins than their female counterparts. Females are typically smaller in size and have shorter, rounded fins.

Behavior and Temperament

Betta fish are known for their bold and spirited personalities, making them fascinating and entertaining pets. They are curious by nature and often engage in playful interactions with their surroundings and their caretakers.

Don’t be surprised if your Betta swims up to greet you as you approach the tank, as they often recognize and respond to their owners.

Despite their charm, Bettas can also exhibit territorial and aggressive tendencies, particularly male Bettas. This aggression is where their moniker “Siamese fighting fish” comes from, as males will often fight with other males when placed in the same tank. They may flare their gills, fan their fins, and display vibrant colors as a show of dominance or to ward off perceived threats.

Female Bettas tend to be less aggressive than their male counterparts but may still exhibit territorial behavior in certain situations.

To avoid conflict, it’s important to understand the best tank mates for Bettas and to provide an environment where they can coexist peacefully with other species.

bettas in a community tank with live plants

Betta Fish Tank Mates

For Male Betta Fish

Introducing tank mates to a male Betta fish can be challenging due to their territorial nature. It’s best to avoid other brightly colored or long-finned fish, as the male Betta may perceive them as rivals.

Suitable tank mates include small, peaceful species like neon tetras, ember tetras, and harlequin rasboras. Additionally, bottom-dwelling species such as Corydoras catfish or small loaches can be good options since they occupy different areas of the tank.

For Female Betta Fish

Female Betta fish are generally less aggressive than males, making it easier to introduce tank mates. However, they may still display territorial behavior in a community tank. Similar to male Bettas, small and peaceful species that don’t resemble Bettas in appearance are the best choice.

In some cases, a small group of female Bettas, known as a sorority, can coexist peacefully in a well-planted, spacious community tank. Close monitoring is necessary to ensure harmony among the group.

Compatible Non-Fish Tank Mates

Some aquatic creatures like snails, shrimp, and African dwarf frogs can coexist with Bettas. However, compatibility may vary depending on the individual Betta’s temperament. Start by introducing one or two non-fish tank companions and monitor their interactions to ensure a peaceful coexistence.

Tank Mates to Avoid

Avoid housing Bettas with aggressive, fin-nipping, or brightly colored fish, as these can trigger territorial behavior or become targets of aggression.

Examples of unsuitable tank companions include tiger barbs, guppies, and other male Bettas. Additionally, it’s best to avoid large or predatory fish that may see the Betta as a potential meal.

Check out our article on Betta tank mates for more details.

Betta Tank Setup

betta fish swimming in aquarium tank

One of the key factors in Betta fish care is creating an environment that comes close to matching their natural habitat. Let’s break down how you should set up your Betta’s tank.

Tank Size

A suitable tank size for a single Betta fish is a minimum of 5 gallons, providing ample space for swimming and exploration. If you plan to add tank mates or multiple female Bettas, a larger tank is necessary to ensure adequate space and reduce territorial disputes. Ten gallons or larger is recommended for community tank setups.

What to Put In a Betta Fish Tank

Betta fish appreciate a well-decorated tank with hiding spots, as it mimics their natural habitat and provides a sense of security. Include live or silk plants, which are gentle on their delicate fins, and add hiding spots such as caves or hollow decorations.

Floating plants can also be beneficial in a Betta fish’s tank, as they provide additional cover and resting spots near the water’s surface.

Indian Almond Leaves

Indian Almond leaves release tannins into the water, which can replicate the slightly acidic conditions of a Betta’s habitat in the wild. These leaves can also promote the growth of beneficial bacteria, help reduce stress, and have mild antifungal and antibacterial properties.


Choose a soft, fine-grained substrate like sand or small, smooth gravel to avoid damaging the Betta’s fins. A darker-colored substrate can help bring out the Betta’s vibrant colors and create a more natural-looking environment.


A gentle, low-flow filter is essential for maintaining water quality in a Betta tank. Bettas are not strong swimmers and prefer calm water, so be sure to choose a filter that doesn’t create a strong current. Sponge filters or adjustable flow filters are ideal choices for Betta tanks.

Water Parameters

Maintaining proper water parameters is crucial to Betta fish care as their health and well-being hinge on it. Here are the key aspects to monitor:

  • Temperature: Bettas are tropical fish and thrive in water temperatures between 76°F and 82°F (24°C-28°C). A heater and thermometer are essential for maintaining a stable temperature within this range.
  • pH: Bettas prefer water conditions that are slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH level between 6.5 and 7.5. Use a pH test kit to monitor the water’s pH and make adjustments if necessary.
  • Hardness: The ideal water hardness for Bettas is between 2 and 5 dKH (35.8-89.5 ppm). Soft to moderately hard water is best, as it closely resembles their natural habitat.
  • Nitrate and Nitrites: Regularly test your tank’s water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Ammonia and nitrite should be at 0 ppm, while nitrates should be kept below 20 ppm. Perform regular water changes and maintain a well-functioning filter to control these levels.
  • Other Water Concerns: In addition to the parameters listed above, monitor the overall water quality in your Betta’s tank. Ensure that the water is clear and free of any foul odors. Regular water changes (around 25% weekly) and proper tank maintenance will help maintain a healthy environment for your Betta.

Diet and Feeding

floating food in a fish tank with betta image

Betta fish are primarily carnivorous, and their diet should reflect their natural preference for protein-rich foods. A well-balanced diet is essential for keeping Betta fish healthy.

Remember, healthy and happy Betta fish have the most vibrant colors and graceful movement. Here are some tips for feeding your Betta:

  • Betta-specific pellets: High-quality Betta pellets should be the staple of their diet. Look for pellets with a high protein content (around 40-50%) and made from whole fish or shrimp meal. Avoid low-quality pellets with high filler content.
  • Live and frozen foods: Supplement the pellet diet with live or frozen foods. Let your Betta fish eat as brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms. These protein-rich foods not only provide essential nutrients but also stimulate your Betta’s hunting instincts and add variety to their diet.
  • Feeding frequency: Feed your Betta fish once or twice a day, offering only as much food as they can consume within a couple of minutes. Overfeeding can lead to obesity, poor water quality, and health issues.
  • Fasting: Bettas can benefit from occasional fasting. Skipping a meal once a week can help prevent constipation and bloating, ensuring your Betta stays healthy.
  • Vegetables: Although they are primarily carnivorous, it would be beneficial if Betta fish eat small amounts of blanched vegetables, such as peas or spinach, on occasion. These can provide additional nutrients and fiber, promoting good digestive health.

Remember that a varied, balanced diet is crucial for the overall health and well-being of your Betta fish. Monitor their eating habits and adjust the diet as needed to ensure they receive the proper nutrition.

Common Diseases and Health Issues

Betta fish can be susceptible to various health issues, many of which can be prevented or treated with proper care and attention. Here are some common Betta diseases and health concerns to watch for:

  • Fin rot: This bacterial infection causes fraying, discoloration, or rotting of the fins. It’s often the result of poor water quality. Maintain a clean tank, and treat with aquarium salt or antibiotics as needed.
  • Ich (white spot disease): This parasitic infection manifests as small white spots on the Betta’s body and fins. It can be treated with increased water temperature and over-the-counter ich medications.
  • Velvet: This parasitic infection appears as a gold or rusty dust on the Betta’s body, often accompanied by clamped fins, lethargy, and loss of appetite. Treatment includes increasing the water temperature, reducing light exposure, and using over-the-counter velvet medications.
  • Swim bladder disease: This condition affects the Betta’s ability to swim and maintain buoyancy. It can be caused by overfeeding, constipation, or bacterial infections. Treatment may involve fasting, feeding cooked peas, or using antibiotics.
  • Dropsy: A symptom of an internal bacterial infection, dropsy causes the Betta to appear bloated with raised scales, resembling a pinecone. It’s challenging to treat and may require antibiotics. Early detection is key to increasing the chances of recovery.

As for health issues, here are some that you should look out for as you’re caring for your Betta fish:

  • Constipation: Overfeeding or a lack of fiber in the diet can lead to constipation in Bettas. Signs include a bloated appearance and difficulty in passing waste. To prevent and treat constipation, avoid overfeeding, incorporate fiber-rich foods like daphnia or blanched peas, and consider fasting your Betta fish for a day.
  • Bloating: Bloating can be caused by constipation, overfeeding, or gulping air at the surface. Ensure your Betta is fed an appropriate amount of food and consider adding floating plants to reduce the likelihood of gulping air.
  • Stress: Stress can weaken a Betta’s immune system and make them more susceptible to diseases. Common stressors include poor water quality, inadequate hiding spaces, aggressive tank neighbors, and sudden changes in water parameters. Minimize stress by maintaining a proper tank environment and closely monitoring the compatibility of tank companions.
  • Fading colors: A Betta’s colors may fade due to stress, illness, or aging. Ensuring a stress-free environment, providing proper nutrition, and monitoring your Betta’s health can help maintain their vibrant colors.
  • Torn fins: Bettas can damage their delicate fins by rubbing against sharp tank decorations or aggressive tank mates. Inspect your tank for any sharp edges and ensure compatibility with tank neighbors to avoid injury.
  • Inactivity and lethargy: If your Betta fish becomes less active or shows signs of lethargy, it could indicate stress, illness, or poor water quality. Check the water parameters, monitor for signs of disease, and ensure your Betta has a comfortable and stress-free environment.

Keeping Betta fish healthy and in peak condition starts with proper care, including maintaining good water quality, providing a balanced diet, and monitoring their behavior and appearance for any signs of illness.

If you notice any changes in your Betta’s health, consult a veterinarian or aquarium specialist for advice on appropriate treatment.

Breeding Betta Fish

Breeding Betta Fish

Breeding these remarkable Bettas can be an exciting and rewarding experience, as it lets you witness the miracle of life in a dazzling aquatic display. Here are the steps that you have to go through for successful Betta reproduction.

  1. To set the stage for a successful Betta mating, you’ll need to create the perfect love nest for your male and female Betta. Choose a spacious and clean tank (10 gallons or more) with a heater to maintain a stable temperature (around 78-80°F). Add some live plants and hiding spots to create a cozy, conducive environment. To ramp up the romance, lower the water level to about 5-6 inches, which will help the male build a stronger bubble nest.
  2. Speaking of bubble nests, Betta fish have an extraordinary way of taking care of their future offspring. The male Bettas build these delicate nests on the water’s surface using their saliva to create tiny bubbles. This foamy masterpiece is where the betta fish eggs will be safely tucked away after being fertilized.
  3. When it’s time to play match up your Bettas, you’ll want to choose a healthy, vibrant pair. Give them a high-quality diet and keep them separated with a clear divider for a few days to let the sparks fly. The female Betta fish will develop a fuller belly with visible eggs, while the male will start building his bubble nest.
  4. The moment of truth arrives when you remove the divider, allowing the two Bettas to meet. If all goes well, they will engage in a stunning aquatic dance. The male will wrap his body around the female, gently squeezing the eggs out of her. As she releases the eggs, he fertilizes them, and then carefully places each one into his bubble nest. This breathtaking embrace, called the “nuptial clasp,” can happen several times until all the eggs are released.
  5. After their passionate encounter, the male takes on the role of a devoted father. He will guard the bubble nest, keeping a watchful eye on his precious cargo, while the female should be removed to avoid any unwanted aggression. The eggs will hatch within 48 hours, and the tiny Betta fry will emerge, ready to explore their new world.
  6. As a breeder, your job now shifts to providing the best possible care for these tiny, fragile creatures. Baby brine shrimp and micro worms make an excellent first meal for the Betta fish fry. As they grow, you’ll need to keep their tank clean, monitor water quality, and eventually separate the more aggressive siblings.

FAQs on Betta Fish Care

How often should I change the water in my Betta fish aquarium?

Regular water changes are crucial for maintaining water quality. Perform a partial water change (25-30%) once a week for smaller Betta fish tanks (5-10 gallons), and every two weeks for larger tanks (10 gallons and above). Make sure to use a water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramines.

Do Betta fish need a light?

Betta fish do not require a dedicated light source, but they do benefit from a consistent day and night cycle. Providing indirect natural light or using an aquarium light on a timer can help regulate their internal clock and promote a healthy sleep pattern.

How can I keep my Betta fish happy and entertained?

Provide your Betta with a stimulating environment by including live plants, hiding spots (like caves or decorations), and a variety of textures. You can also place a mirror near the tank for short periods to encourage flaring and exercise.

Can I use tap water for my betta fish tank?

Tap water can be used for your betta fish tank, but it must be treated with a water conditioner to remove harmful chemicals such as chlorine and chloramine.

Additionally, make sure the water temperature is within the appropriate range before adding it to your tank.

Grow and Share that Betta Love!

Betta fish are truly captivating pets that bring beauty and tranquility to any space. As a betta fish keeper, your responsibility is to provide these finned friends with the best possible care, creating a healthy and stimulating environment that promotes their well-being.

Understanding the unique needs of Betta fish is essential to ensure they thrive in your care. By providing a spacious tank, maintaining optimal water conditions, offering a balanced diet, and monitoring their health, you’ll be well on your way to creating a happy home for your Betta.

Remember, each Betta fish has its own personality, and observing their behavior can be a rewarding and educational experience. As you grow in your understanding of these enchanting creatures, you’ll undoubtedly develop a deep bond with your Betta fish that will enrich both of your lives.

Finally, share your passion for Betta fish care with others! By exchanging knowledge and experiences with fellow enthusiasts, you’ll contribute to a community that fosters the love and appreciation of these extraordinary aquatic beings. Together, we can promote responsible Betta fish care and ensure these stunning creatures continue to captivate hearts and minds for generations to come.

We hope all that information was helpful to you. Hope you learned something and agreed with what we had to say, we would love to hear your thoughts on Twitter @BettaInfo.

Please remember to use the social share buttons if you feel this page is of value – we think this page could help improve the conditions of many Betta fish lives if shared wide enough!

Our Complete Betta Fish Care Guide

Betta fish care guide
Check out the details here.

189 thoughts on “Betta Fish Care Guide: Everything You Need to Know”

    1. You should feed your betta fish every day with a few pellets. Their stomach is only as big as their eyes so be careful not to over feed.
      Many owners like to have a day of fasting for their betta once in a while. This helps the digestive system reducing constipation.

  1. gladys easterling

    when you first get your fish is there any preparation you need to make to the tank, gravel or plants before you put your fish into the tank? The one we got just stays in the corner of the tank and doesn’t swim around. He is still alive, but very inactive.

    1. How strong is the flow on the filter? Our fish was very inactive, due to general dislike of the current generated by the filter. A baffle (made of a clean, new fish tank cleaning sponge and a rubber band that had been cleaned of any residue in dechlorinated water) over the output of the filter cut flow immensely, and now our fish happily swims everywhere.

      Even the filters “built for” 5-gallon tanks have a standard output flow of between 10 and 20 gallons per minute (gpm). This grabs your fish by the fins and bats them around the tank like a cat with a new toy. Thus, they stay on the bottom, in a far corner from the flow, in order to avoid this abuse. A baffle on the output (NOT the input, as this will overwork and burn out the pump) will make it so your fish can swim; but it will also make it necessary to check on the water a bit more often; just beware.

      Hope this helps.

    1. It just isn’t used to the food. It probably was eating another food. My brother’s betta was like that for a little while, but he got used to the food.

      1. I have had two bettas. One wouldn’t even touch the first type of food I bought him. He would not even come up to examine it, but the second kind of food he devoured. Bettas can be a bit picky, or at least the two I have had were.

  2. My betta has been very active, however I noticed tonight she just wants to what looks like staring out of her tank. I just got her 4days ago, could she just be adjusting to new surroundings,or should I worry?.

    1. Check to see if you fish looks bloated or ill in any way. But you should give this more than one day to get worried if there is nothing else wrong.

    1. No, this tank is too small for more than one betta. Also a male and female should not be kept together. They should only be put together for breeding.

  3. We got our first little beta on Saturday (it’s now Monday) and the little guy just hides under his heater 95% of the time. He’s got quite a big bowl filled with purple stones at the bottom and then some coral and shells in there too. I’ve laid the heater on the bottom of the bowl and cover it in the purple stones (was told to do this by pet shop lady and directions in heater packet) the fish keeps digging out a little nook under the heater and hiding under there. He very rarely swims around the rest if the bowl… Is this normal? Should I be worried?

    1. Hi Sara,
      In the first place corals or shells should never be added to any freshwater fish setup. This will increase the ph and stress out your fish. Secondly a heater in a bowl is not recommended, since, the total area is less and the water tends to heat up fast which is bad for the fish. Try removing the heater and check the temp of the water. If its at room temp at 26 to 28 deg centigrade that should be fine. Lastly avoid any kind of artificial colored stones, since, they leech out unwanted chems in the water. Try replacing it with small round white pebbles which you will get at your LFS. The guy should be fine.
      Arun – frm Dubai

      1. Except that many of us are not comfortable in a house that is 78-82 degrees F (26-28 C). So how are we supposed to keep the tank at the prime temp for a Betta without a heater?

    2. Sarah June. Two things. Bowls aren’t suitable for betta fish as they do not allow for proper circulation. The second. Betta fish originally live in the shady rice paddies of northern India. They require places to hide and chill out. They need shady spots and your aquarium so you need to provide a cave of some sorts also a lid as they are jumpers. Finally switch your tank light off at night so they can rest. Your betta will look paler in the morning but this is completely natural. Good luck. 5years experience.


    I just received two Betta fish as a gift , yesterday and I don’t have any Idea how to care for them . my worries are the water temperture if they really need a filter too !

  5. I have a small baby boybetta petco is nowselling themasa baby .he is kind ofblue and aqua in color iha e himina8 l nano tank with a small heater, heeats welland letsme pet hisback with my little finger. how long will it take for him to growto maturaty. thank you

  6. I have a blue Betta fish, Fabio. He has been doing well the 4 months I have had him. Yesterday, I noticed him tail color was a bit brownish. I switched out his water, but he jumped out of the net I use to get him out of the bowl. Quickly, we placed him in a cup. After cleaning his bowl, we put him back in. He was acting strange. He couldn’t swim down, even when I coaxed him to try. He seems to back to normal now( about 24 hours later), but His tail is still that color. I though at first rotten tail, but only his dorsal fin looks uneven. If I gave him antibiotics, would it hurt him? I am not sure if it is rotten tail, but would like to take care of it if it is. Also, if I can give him antibiotic, do you have any brands to recommend?

  7. I used Dr. Tim’s bacteria booster to get my tank started and it worked great. I’ve also heard that tetra safe start works too. i think articles like this are pretty neat but i got a lot of info from forums like fishlore, aquarium advice/these are good. But stay away from tropicalfishkeeping as they tend to have a lot of novices on those forums giving bad advice.

  8. Hey all, just got a Betta fish for our Daughters first pet, we have a smallish tank around 5 liters roughly 1 and a half gallons, it has an ornament and a plant inside it, no filter as we plan to change the water with our Daughter on a regular basis to teach her about schedules with birds, then dogs etc.. We have been seeing 5 gallons is the minimum recommended, but when we spoke to pet shops, they tell us no, it’s too big?

    We want this fish for as long as possible, but there is just too much needed to care for them it seems, kinda wishing we got a bird now! Haha!

    Any info for new comers wanting to make the best of it? Thanks all!

    1. Not sure if you’re still looking for answers, but I have had both birds and fish and can tell you that birds are MUCH more high maintenance than a betta fish. I currently own two finches – considered low maintenance in the bird world – and they require constant attention and maintenance to remain healthy and happy. I have previously owned budgies (parakeets) and they needed even more work.
      Pet stores will often state that the small “betta kits” are large enough. This is not correct. Pet stores want to sell their betta kits, so of course they’ll insist that these are large enough for a happy fish. However 5 gallon is the ideal. It’s also ideal for you to have a larger tank simply from an ease-of-care aspect: larger tanks require less frequent cleaning/water cycling – weekly or semi-weekly rather than daily or every other day. Cleaning/water cycling is also a stressful process for the fish, so the necessity of more frequent cleanings is not ideal for you or for the fish! Also, they are a tropical fish, and so require a water temperature of around 78-82 degrees Fahrenheit, which is warmer than most homes. A larger tank makes the temperature much, much easier to regulate, as fluctuations in temperature happen much more slowly in larger amounts of water. This will keep your fish healthier and happier! In fact, most tank heaters are not rated for anything below 5 gallons, meaning they will heat the water TOO much in a tank that is too small. This is another reason that a larger tank is preferred for bettas. (Tank heaters made specifically for betta tanks can be found at most pet stores and are fairly inexpensive and easy to run.) In addition, bettas really appreciate having little cave-like spaces to hide, so depending on what your ornament looks like and how much shelter it can provide, you may consider looking for a little betta hide.
      Hopefully this answered some of your questions. Best of luck with your little friend!

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  11. Amber Armstrong

    I have two betta one is a koi betta and my male is a crown king I was told the bowls were ok just y5o leave room for the air they seem really happy in them they have alot of plants and rocks to hide in

    1. Hi Amber, thanks for getting in touch! A bowl is not really suitable they are too small. If you were in a tropical country at least the water temperatue would be about right but a filter is also really needed for water quality. A beta fish can survive in those conditions however they are not ideal.

  12. This is a great care info for betta fish, but if you live in a tropical country like me (Philippines) you don’t really need to heat your water haha the water here is already perfect for them we just add some salt and all is perfect haha… just sharing my experience hehe..

  13. I am a brand new betta owner and picked up my little crown tail from a pet store last weekend. When I bought him, I didn’t know what to look for in a healthy fish but after bringing him home, I noticed his fins do not look like they are in good condition. I was hoping they’d get better after being in a bigger tank with a filter and a heater but there has been no changes. I have been changing the water every other night but the tips of his fins are still bent and he is missing the ends of all his back fins. Is something wrong with my fish and how can I help him?

    1. Fin rot is a treatable illness so not to worry too much. Usually, it comes from dirty water. Your water sounds clean, you don’t need to change it every other day. Instead do larger water every few days. Here is the medicine that will cure fin rot,aps,255&sr=8-1-spons&ref=sr_1_1_sspa&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=jffamz-20&linkId=248b3390c6cc38cebe2d401ac0fff55d&language=en_US check the back of the packet and follow the instructions 🙂

  14. This morning I forgot to turn my tank lights on before I left for work. I immediately turned them on when I got home at 4pm and had realized what happened. The lights have been on for about 3.5 hours now. I get up early, so I usually go to bed around 8. Will my Berta’s be ok with only 4hours of light? This is the only time it’s happened.

    1. No need to worry about that. Light is most important for plants in your tank. It is good for you betta to have equal and regular light / dark periods each day but one day where they don’t get any light or not as much as usual is nothing to worry about. 🙂

      We like to use a timer on the plug socket so our light automatically turns on and off without us.

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